Bump along dirt roads for miles until you reach rugged Grande Anse beach, the site of nesting leatherback and hawksbill turtles from March through August. We arrive in the early evening and camp overnight in tents set up by Heritage Tours’ guides, who awaken us when a turtle comes ashore. After getting acclimated to the darkness, we watch the 500-pound mama dig her nest with her back flippers, lay her eggs, cover up the nest and then lumber back to the sea. This ancient ritual is a truly amazing site. Chances of witnessing a nesting turtle are best on moonless nights; sightings, of course, cannot be guaranteed, as they remain up to the turtles.